The scientist who went up a mountain, and came back knackered...

I'm not going to include that quote about climbing Fujisan that every other account I've read online seems to do. Not one Japanese person has mentioned that to me, when I said I was going. Anyway, finally I can tick off another one of those life ambitions and say I've done Fuji. As I sit here I can feel the legs telling me this is a loud chorus. Before going I read many stories from those who climbed Fujisan- having done it, either they lied about how easy it was, forgot, or were all some sort of superhero. Here is my tale...The first part from Sapporo to Shinjuku

and out to Gotemba was easy, pretty relaxed even in the heat and humidity of Tokyo.

We got half way up the windy road to the Subashiri go-gome and stopped, a huge traffic que, I thought maybe an accident as we saw police cars and breakdown trucks skip past us up the road, but when we eventually got moving again (nearly an hour and half later!) it turned out that the other side of the road was full of parked cars, for miles people had parked for hiking so essentially there was a single track road for up and down and not enough space for the 2 of us...the joy of holiday weekend travels.So having arrived late we came of the bus to be met bycrowds and people asking if we'd booked a space in the hut yet.

We sat back whilst they rang various hut to ask for a space. We luckily managed to get the last 2 spaces in a hut at the 7th station. So later than we liked we set off...

The woods at the subashiri trail provided from shade from the pretty intense sun, though it mean there were flies and mozzies. The sweat pouring from stopped most of them getting a bite,except on my leg (as I noticed later).

We carried on up, stopped to rest our calves and take pictures. It was a nice feeling to be able to keep pace with the younger students on the trail. At least some of the running and hiking before had a good effect. Soon the first 6th station came into view.

It was still pretty warm here, but nice to get the pack off and cool down. I was starting to regret not packing deodorant at this point (Doh!). After this 6th station it got a little steeper on the trail up to the next 6th station.This is the evil part of hiking is the number of 6th, 7th, 8th

stations there are. Even though you know, its hard mentally- you almost feel like no progress is being made. The second sixth station was a small hut with seats perched on the edge- like

sitting on the edge of the sky. we stopped only a short while here concious of the lengthening shadows and later afternoon light. Onwards and upwards...

We got to the 7th station as the sun was setting. So we got to see the Fujishadow.

Unfortunately this wasn't our 7th station we still had another 300m to climb up to our hut for the night.

The last climb up to the second 7th hut was hard, mentally and physically. The trail was much steeper and rockier and it was the first time I was climbing at night with a head torch on- it just seemed endless. I was very grateful to get to our hut and collapse. So 7th hut 3200m up-

highest I'd ever climbed. Dinner was curry rice and pickles, but I was so tired I wasn't hungry and had to force myself to eat a few mouthfuls at least. They rolled out the futons and everyone settled down for a few hours sleep. I tried sleeping, but for the first hour I was still recovering form climbing up (cold and sweaty- nice!) and then I was thinking of when we had to get up- meanwhile everyone else was gently snoring around me.

One good thing was that I didn't really get any altitude sickness. Around 1am people started getting up and leaving and soon my friend woke and we decided to carry on, though I was feeling a bit sick at this time. I decided that I would see how I was at the next station and maybe stop there for sunrise instead of trying for

the summit. when we came of the hut the crowds climbing at night became visible. As did the stars. The stars were amazing especially when you could also see

the lights of the cities below- all the way to Tokyo....

I wish I could have taken a picture of them, we could even see the milky way. All the way up the to the summit we call also see the lights of all the hikers lighting the way.

As soon as we started again, the tiredness came back replacing the sickness. I had to pause more often and at one point it was a battle of wills to carry on, but we made it up the next hut- the first 8th station. Around the corner from the 8th station the wind was blowing strongly which made me nervous. I'm not really confident at climbing when its windy and at night... but I decided I would make it up to the next 8th station. One final push for me, I decided that the 8th station was enough, it was clear so the view be virtually the same and I'd have more energy for the climb down. Once I made this decision I felt happy.

The second 8th station was a god send- not only hot drinks and a place out the wind to drink them, they also had a 3 hour rest option, so my friend dropped his rucksack, packed his camera and made a bid for the summit for sunrise and I went and rested and saw the sunrise from the 8th station (3400-3500m up). Sunrise was spectacular...

After the sun rose I went and had a wee nap whilst waiting for my friend to come back from the summit. I figured he'd be a while because the crowds were big- it was busy enough at the 8th station. It was near on 7am before we started heading down the trail back to the 5th station and the bus.

The trail down was dusty and busy with tour groups and other individual hikers, all kicking up clouds of dust and slidding on the lose gravelly ashy trail, but down to the 7th station level it wasn't so bad. According to the map and guides, the trail straight down the mountain

(sunabashiri) is a quick way down, dropping about 1000m or more in less than an hour, people run it! Once I got close to it I knew there was no way I was running it. It was really steep and full of lava rocks, not just gravelly sand and ash. As you walked down you sink up to you calves in the trail and its a matter of controlling your slide more than walking.

Some people of course ran, many passed me, but I wasn't going to risk a twisted ankle or cut up face (like some we saw). so my progress was slow and painful. Whoever came up with this trail was some kid of sadist and I hope that they are stuck in some level of hell where there knees are being roasted over flames and beaten with sticks. This would be close to what it felt like for me descending that part. My friend was waiting for me in a copse of trees and bottom of the long straight section, after cooling off I felt happier that I had nearly finished, the 5.5 station would just be round the corner and cold drink would be waiting for me.... As it turned out about 30 tree's later the tree's stopped and another steep slope of the same material was there. Needless to say I was not a happy bunny, I was practically sobbing here and my knees were all wobbly and aching. It took supreme efforts to keep going- I think I would have murdered anyone passing, on the 4 wheel buggy they use for hauling supplies or with a horse (wrong trail unfortunately), at this point in time. Another eternity and roasting by the now intense sun the 5.5 station came into site and stumbled into the shade for a rest and a blissfully cold lemonade. The end was almost in sight, though as it turned out there was one last loose gravelly, straight section- which was got through with much swearing from me- my friend wisely read my grumpiness and left me to it. Then into the woods where the torture continued. On the way up the trail gently rose through the trees with stone steps. Down was narrow and full of roots and uncomfortably large steps down, designed to thoroughly finish your legs off and kill your spirit.

The ice cream at the 5th station was mana from heaven, it was weird to be back with all the high-heeled shoe wearing day trippers and those super-genki climbers just setting off. All those finishing were covering in black dust or sweat and dragging their sticks along the ground.

The trip back to the airport was another adventure... the so -called express train from Gotemba to Shinjuku was no an express in a million years so instead to have any chance of catching my flight up to Sapporo, I had to get off an random station and run to the Inokashira line transfer for Shibuya, then run through Shibuya and Hamamatchusho to try and get to the airport on time, in the heat and humidity, still with black dust on my skin and sweat in my hair.

I made it with 1 min to spare and then had to run to the gate. Thankfully no-one was sitting directly next to me and I was trying not to move and smell too much.

So here ends my Fuji adventure. My legs have finally stopped aching everytime I sat down, stood up or walked up and down stairs. Would I do it again?..er no, no thanks