From the Scuttlebutt...

So last time I mentioned that His Highness (aka the Big Boss) was AWOL with my fellowship hanging in the balance. Well.... as it turns out, he's in a hospital somewhere in Sapporo! He came back from his hols in the UK (apparently the UK isn't to blame for this-well I hope not, not a very stunning recomendation to visit otherwise) and went into hospital. Its all been very cryptic, the first I heard of it was on the gaijin grapevine (or the beer garden in Sapporo) when a friend of mine who helps with proof-reading etc. was called into work to help draft emails cancelling various events. Naturally he passed this on to me. Then the next day around at a friend from works house we all sat round and discussed that my mini boss had recieved a phonecall on Friday, saying that he was in a hospital....much gossiping ensued, most of it lost on me with it being in Japanese.
At work last week, the lunchtime has been spent with much discussion, but it seems that those who know are being tightlipped... I've tried plumping the lovely secretaries for info (because if anyone knows I figured they would be the ones) but they ain't saying anything. Also that he's not in the university hospital either is pretty telling, the entire department would have known whats wrong within minutes most likely. All thats known is that he's out of action for the next couple of months...now all we can gossip about is what it is thats wrong with him and enjoy the fact that the department meetings will probably now take half the time without him there...
Thankfully though, my mini boss has stepped in and (bless him) is helping me complete the fellowship application. So there's progress there, thankfully.
It was actually a very medically drama theme week last week... the visiting Prof, that should have come last week cancelled due to being holed up in a Bangkok hospital with food poisoning and then whilst out with a friend for dinner at open plan restaurant, a passing eldery salary man crashed headfirst into the seats right by our table with something pretty seriously wrong with him. I was already to leap into action with my very rusty first aid skills when a what I think must have been an off duty doctor got there first- probably a good thing as I can't ever remember the word for ambulance in Japanese.
All this and Oyomesan's melon sized cyst too. I can't imagine what I would do if I was if it was me with that inside me. I don't think I would be coping as well as she seems to be! Hang in there Oyomesan!

Meanwhile I hope everyone else is healthy.

What I did this August by me aged 32 and half...

These last two weeks have brought new cinema trips- the sauna like heat drove me indoors to the airconditioned places. I went and saw the new Ghibli movie The Borrower Arrietty (借りぐらしのアリエッティ, Karigurashi no Arietti). I'm pretty impressed that could follow most of the dialogue despite my crappy Japanese, though I guess it helps that it is a kiddies story.
It was really beautifully animated and the story was easy to follow with really nice music- in ENGLISH! well sung by a french woman in English at least. I also saw The Sorcerers Apprentice (suprisingly enjoyable even if its horribly cliched).

I also survived my friends hen party- kept the peace between competing chiefs at the event,well attempted to at least.

I spent most of last week with swelling, pain, itching and eventually antibiotics. The blasted heat and humidity addled my brain and I stupidly left the screen open overnight so that a maurading mozzie enjoyed a feast whilst I slept. The resulting bites were not pretty.
The evil bugger even got my little finger which swelled up and turned purple with a scary red line advancing down the back of my hand. Fortunately being in a lab in a medical school means that my neighbours are doctors with boxes of free drugs so within 2 minutes of showing my hand a pack of superstrong antibiotics were given to me which stopped me from indulging in my hypochondria of tetanus and amputations.

I have been working to. I wrote a fellowship application so that I can get 2 years of money and stay in Japan. This would be great, but recently new complications have come along which are causing me some small worries.
Firstly, my mini boss got promoted, which means he's moving off down south where the big bugs roam. It took him by surprise, on account his interview was waaaaaaaaay back in February. And they want him to start in September so he's reaching new levels of stress at the moment trying to do everything. This means that the money for our research is about to also head south so we've been on frantic spending spree's to see us through to next year. Also non of us (probably not even the mini boss) knows whats going to happen to our group. Who will be the next head of the lab? what happens to the technicians, students and me???? is this fellowship for here or the other university. I don't know, he doesn't know....
We would ask his highness, but he's been away on his summer hols and hasn't appeared back when he should... so with an AWOL department head things are feeling abit unsettled for me and the application deadline is rapidly approaching.

Salt and vinegar update

Not too much to report, I've been taking it easy since the epic of Fuji aided by the crappy weather and hellishly busy week at work last week. It was mostly busy because random visiting profs and my talk I gave about Scotland (which I think went pretty well if I might say so *insert smug smile here*). The random prof. was German and as we (I and some of my other lab mates) showed him round the humid and damp sites of Sapporo kept on bringing up The War, Jews (in a very non- 3rd reich way btw) and other extra-sweat inducing topics- and of course all I had in my head after the first comment of his was Faulty Towers and "don't mention the war" comments in my head after this.
I can be thankful that most of the conversation probably went over the other peoples head, they had already been buggy-eyed at the fact that he's gay. J-people, GET A GRIP!
One of my colleagues is going off to work in America- California, no less so he'd better get over it quickly otherwise his head may explode.
That was a long day in an already long week- I didn't get home until around 9pm pretty much every night last week. This week is the opposite- both the Supreme Commander (aka his highness, or the big boss) is away and also my mini Boss is taking a well earned rest (more on that development in another post I think) so I fairly skipped out the lab in the daylight at 5.30 last night and met a friend for a cinema trip, finally getting to see one of the many films on my to-watch list.
Salt- Angelina Jolie in super-action mode. I really enjoyed it, its a little bit Josephine Bourne, and also kinda freaky given all the recent real Russian spy stories from America. That it also has one of my favourite actors in it too is an extra bonus (Chiwetel Ejiofor). If you have the time, give Salt a watch I reccomend it.
And speaking of movies, another I want to see is Toy Story 3, but the stupid cinemas in Sapporo have decided to only show dubbed versions of it, so I'm screwed. Does anyone know if its the same in other parts of Japan- because previously they always had a subtitled version for these kinds of films and I hope this isn't a new trend.
Anyway, the rest of this week should be also quiet- I hopefully will be off on Thursday for a R&R session with another friend, before she leaves for Sweden and before her Hen party on Saturday- I'm not sure Sapporo is ready for a bunch of foreign females on a Hen Party, lets see...

The scientist who went up a mountain, and came back knackered...

I'm not going to include that quote about climbing Fujisan that every other account I've read online seems to do. Not one Japanese person has mentioned that to me, when I said I was going. Anyway, finally I can tick off another one of those life ambitions and say I've done Fuji. As I sit here I can feel the legs telling me this is a loud chorus. Before going I read many stories from those who climbed Fujisan- having done it, either they lied about how easy it was, forgot, or were all some sort of superhero. Here is my tale...The first part from Sapporo to Shinjuku

and out to Gotemba was easy, pretty relaxed even in the heat and humidity of Tokyo.

We got half way up the windy road to the Subashiri go-gome and stopped, a huge traffic que, I thought maybe an accident as we saw police cars and breakdown trucks skip past us up the road, but when we eventually got moving again (nearly an hour and half later!) it turned out that the other side of the road was full of parked cars, for miles people had parked for hiking so essentially there was a single track road for up and down and not enough space for the 2 of us...the joy of holiday weekend travels.So having arrived late we came of the bus to be met bycrowds and people asking if we'd booked a space in the hut yet.

We sat back whilst they rang various hut to ask for a space. We luckily managed to get the last 2 spaces in a hut at the 7th station. So later than we liked we set off...

The woods at the subashiri trail provided from shade from the pretty intense sun, though it mean there were flies and mozzies. The sweat pouring from stopped most of them getting a bite,except on my leg (as I noticed later).

We carried on up, stopped to rest our calves and take pictures. It was a nice feeling to be able to keep pace with the younger students on the trail. At least some of the running and hiking before had a good effect. Soon the first 6th station came into view.

It was still pretty warm here, but nice to get the pack off and cool down. I was starting to regret not packing deodorant at this point (Doh!). After this 6th station it got a little steeper on the trail up to the next 6th station.This is the evil part of hiking is the number of 6th, 7th, 8th

stations there are. Even though you know, its hard mentally- you almost feel like no progress is being made. The second sixth station was a small hut with seats perched on the edge- like

sitting on the edge of the sky. we stopped only a short while here concious of the lengthening shadows and later afternoon light. Onwards and upwards...

We got to the 7th station as the sun was setting. So we got to see the Fujishadow.

Unfortunately this wasn't our 7th station we still had another 300m to climb up to our hut for the night.

The last climb up to the second 7th hut was hard, mentally and physically. The trail was much steeper and rockier and it was the first time I was climbing at night with a head torch on- it just seemed endless. I was very grateful to get to our hut and collapse. So 7th hut 3200m up-

highest I'd ever climbed. Dinner was curry rice and pickles, but I was so tired I wasn't hungry and had to force myself to eat a few mouthfuls at least. They rolled out the futons and everyone settled down for a few hours sleep. I tried sleeping, but for the first hour I was still recovering form climbing up (cold and sweaty- nice!) and then I was thinking of when we had to get up- meanwhile everyone else was gently snoring around me.

One good thing was that I didn't really get any altitude sickness. Around 1am people started getting up and leaving and soon my friend woke and we decided to carry on, though I was feeling a bit sick at this time. I decided that I would see how I was at the next station and maybe stop there for sunrise instead of trying for

the summit. when we came of the hut the crowds climbing at night became visible. As did the stars. The stars were amazing especially when you could also see

the lights of the cities below- all the way to Tokyo....

I wish I could have taken a picture of them, we could even see the milky way. All the way up the to the summit we call also see the lights of all the hikers lighting the way.

As soon as we started again, the tiredness came back replacing the sickness. I had to pause more often and at one point it was a battle of wills to carry on, but we made it up the next hut- the first 8th station. Around the corner from the 8th station the wind was blowing strongly which made me nervous. I'm not really confident at climbing when its windy and at night... but I decided I would make it up to the next 8th station. One final push for me, I decided that the 8th station was enough, it was clear so the view be virtually the same and I'd have more energy for the climb down. Once I made this decision I felt happy.

The second 8th station was a god send- not only hot drinks and a place out the wind to drink them, they also had a 3 hour rest option, so my friend dropped his rucksack, packed his camera and made a bid for the summit for sunrise and I went and rested and saw the sunrise from the 8th station (3400-3500m up). Sunrise was spectacular...

After the sun rose I went and had a wee nap whilst waiting for my friend to come back from the summit. I figured he'd be a while because the crowds were big- it was busy enough at the 8th station. It was near on 7am before we started heading down the trail back to the 5th station and the bus.

The trail down was dusty and busy with tour groups and other individual hikers, all kicking up clouds of dust and slidding on the lose gravelly ashy trail, but down to the 7th station level it wasn't so bad. According to the map and guides, the trail straight down the mountain

(sunabashiri) is a quick way down, dropping about 1000m or more in less than an hour, people run it! Once I got close to it I knew there was no way I was running it. It was really steep and full of lava rocks, not just gravelly sand and ash. As you walked down you sink up to you calves in the trail and its a matter of controlling your slide more than walking.

Some people of course ran, many passed me, but I wasn't going to risk a twisted ankle or cut up face (like some we saw). so my progress was slow and painful. Whoever came up with this trail was some kid of sadist and I hope that they are stuck in some level of hell where there knees are being roasted over flames and beaten with sticks. This would be close to what it felt like for me descending that part. My friend was waiting for me in a copse of trees and bottom of the long straight section, after cooling off I felt happier that I had nearly finished, the 5.5 station would just be round the corner and cold drink would be waiting for me.... As it turned out about 30 tree's later the tree's stopped and another steep slope of the same material was there. Needless to say I was not a happy bunny, I was practically sobbing here and my knees were all wobbly and aching. It took supreme efforts to keep going- I think I would have murdered anyone passing, on the 4 wheel buggy they use for hauling supplies or with a horse (wrong trail unfortunately), at this point in time. Another eternity and roasting by the now intense sun the 5.5 station came into site and stumbled into the shade for a rest and a blissfully cold lemonade. The end was almost in sight, though as it turned out there was one last loose gravelly, straight section- which was got through with much swearing from me- my friend wisely read my grumpiness and left me to it. Then into the woods where the torture continued. On the way up the trail gently rose through the trees with stone steps. Down was narrow and full of roots and uncomfortably large steps down, designed to thoroughly finish your legs off and kill your spirit.

The ice cream at the 5th station was mana from heaven, it was weird to be back with all the high-heeled shoe wearing day trippers and those super-genki climbers just setting off. All those finishing were covering in black dust or sweat and dragging their sticks along the ground.

The trip back to the airport was another adventure... the so -called express train from Gotemba to Shinjuku was no an express in a million years so instead to have any chance of catching my flight up to Sapporo, I had to get off an random station and run to the Inokashira line transfer for Shibuya, then run through Shibuya and Hamamatchusho to try and get to the airport on time, in the heat and humidity, still with black dust on my skin and sweat in my hair.

I made it with 1 min to spare and then had to run to the gate. Thankfully no-one was sitting directly next to me and I was trying not to move and smell too much.

So here ends my Fuji adventure. My legs have finally stopped aching everytime I sat down, stood up or walked up and down stairs. Would I do it again?..er no, no thanks

Rest in the bosom of the woods

Listen to the mumuring of a stream, Run after wild birds, Rest in the bosom of the woods....

I snapped this one in a parking lot of a super sento I went to last night...how very evocative, even though its a wheel cover from the back of an SUV.
A friend and I skipped out of the lab early yesterday for some R&R. It was great... hot stone rooms from 6C (with snow falling from the ceiling!) to 61C (didn't feel that much different from 53C or 2 weekends ago in Sapporo). Big pools and out door baths and a great mini reflexology session- all for around 2000Y.
All ready and relaxed for weekend, maybe too relaxed. I didn't want to get out bed today after sleeping so well.
Anyway just 2 experiments to run today and I can go. Its the last weekend before Fuji so its the last chance for a warm-up hike. Maybe I can find a wood and mumuring stream...

On the 7th day of Biscuits....

I ambled to my pigeon hole today and another parcel of biscuits was waiting for me...on Monday there was another bag...
So that makes 5 lots of biscuits in the last 2 weeks. Enough is Enough!

Sorry to tired to write anymore of the super wonderful weeks I've been having...the summer slump has begun

Friday Haiku

Crumbs on the paper
Sticky fingers on the keys
Tim Tams next to me


Yep- more biscuits arrived today, its a conspiracy...